A built-in BBQ needs four things to be safe and to work properly: an enclosure built to the exact cut-out in the manufacturer's dimension sheet, non-combustible materials around it, ventilation, and a safe gas supply. Get the barbecue, or at least its official installation sheet, before anyone picks up a trowel, because cut-outs differ even between models with the same number of burners. Here are the real numbers for the BeefEater built-ins we sell and the reasons behind them.
Before you build
- Choose the exact model. A 4-burner from one range can need a different opening from a 4-burner from another.
- Get the current installation sheet. Build to the manufacturer's figures, not to a measurement taken off the barbecue.
- Decide on brackets and shields. BeefEater's hanging brackets change the cut-out width, so the decision comes before the build.
- Decide on the fuel. An LPG cylinder needs a ventilated compartment you can reach; natural gas needs a Gas Safe registered engineer.
- Pick the spot. Level ground, clear of fences, planting and overhanging branches, with smoke blowing away from doors and windows.
BeefEater cut-out sizes
These figures come from BeefEater's installation data for the built-in ranges we sell. BeefEater's 7000 manual shows a slightly larger opening than its dimension sheet (830mm, or 880mm with the bracket, for the 4-burner, and 604mm deep plus a 40mm gap behind), so check the installation sheet supplied with your barbecue before you build. Always check the sheet supplied with your barbecue before building, as manufacturers can revise them.
| Model | Opening width | Depth | Other requirements |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1200E / 1200S 3-burner | 675mm | 540mm | Cavity at least 230mm high (depth includes 20mm rear clearance); allow about 75mm behind for the hood to open; 450mm to combustibles |
| 1200E / 1200S 4-burner | 825mm | 540mm | As above |
| 1200E / 1200S 5-burner | 994mm | 540mm | As above |
| 1500 / 1600E / 1600S 3-burner | 730mm with BA70HS bracket, 680mm without | 604mm | Non-combustible enclosure; 40mm minimum gap to the rear wall; 450mm to combustibles |
| 1500 / 1600 4-burner | 880mm with bracket, 830mm without | 604mm | As above |
| 1500 / 1600 5-burner | 1050mm with bracket, 1000mm without | 604mm | As above |
| 3000E 3 / 4 / 5-burner | 671 / 828 / 985mm | 520mm | 230mm high (depth includes 20mm rear ventilation); 450mm to combustibles |
| 7000 Classic / Premium 4-burner | 817mm (875mm with BA55HS bracket) | 640mm | From BeefEater's dimension sheet; the 7000 manual asks for 610mm to combustibles |
| 7000 Classic / Premium 5-burner | 973mm (1030mm with BA55HS bracket) | 640mm | As above |
| Proline 6-burner | Bench cut-out 1025 x 502mm | Benchtop at least 600mm deep | Non-combustible benchtop; enclosure vent at least 700 x 25mm |
Materials: why non-combustible matters
A gas barbecue radiates heat sideways and downwards as well as up, for hours at a time. Build the enclosure from masonry, concrete block or another non-combustible material, with a stone, concrete, porcelain or tiled worktop. BeefEater's built-ins call for non-combustible enclosures, and several models give a minimum clearance to anything combustible.
Keep timber pergola posts, fence panels, cushions and planting outside those distances. Some barbecue makers sell insulated jackets so their grills can go into a combustible frame, but that only applies where the manufacturer says so for that model. For the BeefEater built-ins in this guide, build in non-combustible materials.
Ventilation
LPG is heavier than air, so a leak sinks and collects in the bottom of an enclosure rather than drifting away. That is why manufacturers specify ventilation: the 1500 and 1600 enclosures need a 40mm gap to the rear wall, the 3000 series opening includes a 20mm rear ventilation gap, and the 7000 manual asks for a 40mm gap behind the barbecue, and the Proline enclosure needs a vent of at least 700 x 25mm. BeefEater's manual also warns never to obstruct ventilation to the barbecue or the cylinder.
Never seal the cupboard. BeefEater asks for openings at the top and bottom of a cylinder compartment, each with at least 200cm² of free area per cylinder, and at least 200cm² of low-level venting in any other cupboard under the barbecue. Keep vents clear of leaves and storage, and never make the space airtight. Calor advises never storing cylinders in cellars or below ground level, or within 2 metres of an untrapped drain.
Heat shields and brackets
BeefEater sells one rear heat shield (BA10RHS) for the 1200, 1500, 1600, 1700, 3000 and 7000 built-ins, plus side heat shield and hanging bracket sets for each series: BA12SHS for the 1200, BA70HS for the 1500 and 1600, BA45HS for the 3000 and BA55HS for the 7000. On the 1500, 1600 and 7000 the side sets are optional hanging brackets, which is why using them changes the cut-out width. For the 1200, BeefEater's build-in sheet says brackets must be fitted before the barbecue goes into the brickwork. Decide before you build, and tell your builder which width you are using.
Gas: LPG or natural gas
- LPG (bottled gas). BeefEater built-ins are supplied for LPG. Store the cylinder upright in a ventilated compartment you can reach easily to turn it off. The BeefEater UK hose and regulator (part 96581) suits the 1200, 1500, 1600, 1700, 3000 and Clubman series; the 7000 and Proline use a different assembly.
- Natural gas (mains). BeefEater sells a natural gas conversion kit (part 95176) for the 1200, 1500, 1600 and 1700 series, and a separate kit for the 3000E. BeefEater says the conversion must be done by a qualified gas engineer, and Gas Safe Register is clear that by law all gas work must be carried out by a competent Gas Safe registered engineer. That includes running a supply out to the garden.
For LPG, check the hose regularly and replace it if it is cracked or damaged. Calor advises replacing a regulator that is worn or more than 10 years old, and replacing rubber hoses at least every five years. After any connection, brush soapy water over the joints: bubbles mean a leak, and you should never look for a leak with a flame.
Under a pergola or roof?
Gas barbecues are made for outdoor use with plenty of natural ventilation. An open-topped pergola is a different thing from a solid roof or a structure with enclosed sides, because heat and combustion products need to escape. Check your barbecue's manual for its rules on covered areas and overhead clearance (BeefEater's 1500 and Proline manuals ask for at least 1000mm above the cooking surface to anything combustible), keep the clearance to combustibles, and never use a barbecue in a garage, conservatory, enclosed gazebo or tent. If you are planning a roofed outdoor kitchen, our guide to modular and custom outdoor kitchens covers the planning side.
Plan the layout
- Worktop either side: one side for raw food and prep, the other for cooked food and serving.
- Reachable gas: keep the cylinder compartment and gas tap easy to get to in a hurry.
- Wind and the house: smoke and heat should blow away from doors, windows and seating.
- Room behind and above: the hood needs space to open fully. On the 1200 series, BeefEater says to allow about 75mm behind.
- Height: the Proline with roasting hood stands 212mm above the benchtop, the flat lid model just 42mm, which matters if there is a window or shelf above.
- Light and power: outdoor sockets and lighting should be installed by a registered electrician with RCD protection.
Building it, step by step
- Prepare a solid, level base. Block, stone and worktops are heavy, so build on a proper slab or foundation rather than loose paving.
- Build the carcass to the cut-out. Work from the installation sheet, including any rear clearance and the bracket width you chose.
- Form the vents and gas compartment as you build, low down and unobstructed.
- Fit the worktop and check the opening against the sheet before it is fixed.
- Fit the heat shields and brackets, then lower the barbecue into place.
- Connect the gas. For LPG, fit the correct hose and regulator and leak test with soapy water. For natural gas, your Gas Safe registered engineer makes the connection.
- Burn in. Run the barbecue as the manual directs before the first cook.
Finish the job
A built-in barbecue still needs a fitted cover, put on once it has cooled and dried. Choose the BeefEater 1500, 1600 and 1700 built-in cover, the 1200 and 3000 built-in cover or the Proline flat lid cover. Still choosing the barbecue? See how to choose a built-in BBQ, or browse all built-in BBQs.
Common questions
What size cut-out do I need for a built-in BBQ?
It depends on the exact model. A BeefEater 1600 4-burner needs 880mm wide with its hanging bracket or 830mm without, and 604mm deep; a 1200 4-burner needs 825mm wide, 540mm deep and at least 230mm high. Always build to the manufacturer's current sheet.
Can I build a normal trolley BBQ into an island?
Use a model made to be built in. Trolley barbecues are not designed for the heat and ventilation of an enclosure, and boxing one in can overheat the gas fittings.
Can I build a BBQ island from wood?
Not around a BeefEater built-in. BeefEater requires non-combustible enclosures, and the 1200, 1500, 1600 and 3000 need 450mm clearance to combustible materials (610mm for the 7000).
Can I connect my built-in BBQ to mains gas myself?
No. By law all gas work must be done by a competent Gas Safe registered engineer, and BeefEater says natural gas conversions must be done by a qualified gas engineer.
Where should the gas bottle go in an outdoor kitchen?
Upright, in a compartment you can reach easily to turn off, with openings at the top and bottom (BeefEater asks for at least 200cm² each per cylinder). BeefEater's 1500 and 1600 built-in manuals also limit a directly connected cylinder to 9kg. Never in a sealed cupboard, a cellar or below ground level.
Can I install a built-in BBQ under a pergola?
An open-topped pergola is very different from a solid roof or enclosed sides. Follow your barbecue's manual on covered areas and clearances, and never use one in an enclosed space.
How do I clean the drip tray on a built-in BBQ?
Once the barbecue is cold, remove the tray as the manual describes, empty and wash it, and replace the foil or absorbent liner. BeefEater says to change the liner regularly, because a greasy tray can cause a grease fire.
Should I cover my built-in BBQ in winter?
Yes. Clean it, let it dry and fit a cover made for the model to keep out rain and stop mould and rust.
Find the right built-in BBQ
BeefEater built-ins from the 1200 to the Proline, with the covers, shields and gas parts to finish the job. Send us your plans and we will check the cut-out with you.
